Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Beauty tip

Beauty 101: How to Apply Bronzer
Makeup artist Mally Roncal’s simple steps for a natural-looking glow.

By Erin Quinn

1. TEST Select a matte bronzer that's slightly yellow. For fair skin, pick the lightest shade in the range. For medium skin, go with the middle color; try the deepest shade on dark skin. Test it on your jawline; it should look golden.

2. PREP SKIN Smooth on your regular foundation where needed, and apply concealer under the eyes and on blemishes. If you have oily skin, dust translucent powder on any shiny areas to keep bronzer from looking too dark in those spots.

3. BRONZE Dip a medium-size powder brush in the bronzer; tap off the excess. Using small, circular motions, dust your jawline and hairline. Redip the brush, tap it, and then sweep it on your cheekbones, bridge of nose, forehead, and chin.

4. BLEND Dust what's left over on the brush all over your neck, then tap the brush to get rid of any remaining powder. Go back over the same bronzed areas, swirling the brush over any visible edges of color to blend them into the skin.

5. ADD BLUSH Sweep a bright rosy powder blush on the apples of cheeks -- this keeps bronzer from looking flat. The rest of your makeup should be subtle: brown eyeliner, gold or bronze shadow on lids, and a sheer nude or light pink lip color.

Cheat Sheet

Bronzer usually comes in light, medium, and dark. Choose the color that's suited to your skin tone -- going too dark looks fake -- and make sure it's a yellow-based matte powder, not pink-based or sparkly. Check the shade in natural light on your jawline. The color should look tan on your skin, not muddy.
Apply your foundation and concealer as usual (bronzer on bare skin can look splotchy). Women with oily skin should dust translucent powder on shiny areas before applying bronzer to keep from overdosing there.
Use a medium-size powder brush to dust on bronzer -- it allows you better control than a large brush. Dip it in the bronzer, tap off the excess, and whisk it along your jawline and hairline using tight, circular motions.
Lightly swirl your brush in the bronzer again, and tap the brush. Sweep it on your cheekbones and down your nose, then skim over your forehead, chin, and neck. Tap the brush again to remove any remaining powder, and work it over any edges of bronzer to erase them.
Brushing a vibrant rosy blush on the apples of your cheeks will make bronzer look more believable. A matte formula is good for day; in the evening, try a shimmery pink. Keep the rest of your makeup soft: Use brown eye pencil instead of black, swipe on a gold or bronze eye shadow, and apply a sheer nude or light pink lip color.
Products

Fair skin: Look for a bronzer that's tan or honeycolored. Mally Roncal Believable Bronzer in Sexy Golden Tan is a palette that also includes blush and shimmering powder. Jane Bronzing Powder in Sahara is oil-free; the ultra-sheer Too Faced Chocolate Soleil Matte Bronzing Powder (1) adds just a hint of color (mallybeauty.com; janecosmetics.com; toofaced.com).
Medium skin: A medium brown or terra-cotta bronzer is ideal. Try Clinique True Bronze Powder in Sunblushed (2) or Rimmel London Natural Bronzer in Sun Bronze. If you prefer a loose powder, go with Guerlain Terracotta Mineral Flawless Bronzing Powder in No. 02 (clinique.com; rimmellondon.com; guerlain.com).
Dark skin: Roncal likes to sweep a deep, coppery shade under the cheekbones for contour, then dust a bright magenta blush on the apples of the cheeks. Try Cover Girl Queen Collection Natural Hue Minerals Bronzer in Ebony Bronze (3) (covergirl.com).
Tinted moisturizer: For deeper color on any skin tone, pick a tinted moisturizer that's a shade darker than your natural color and smooth it all over your face and neck before applying bronzer. We like Physicians Formula Organic Wear Tinted Moisturizer and Smashbox Sheer Focus Tinted Moisturizer SPF 15 (physiciansformula.com; smashbox.com).
Toolbox

A blush brush, such as the one by Estée Lauder, is the perfect size for applying bronzer(esteelauder.com).
Powder blush is easier to blend over powder bronzer than a cream formula. Try Mally Beauty Blush in Mally's Baby or Revlon Powder Blush in Everything's Rosy (mallybeauty.com; revlon.com).
A light gold or bronze shadow adds just enough color to look fresh. Try Wet n Wild Crème Eye Shadow Pencil in Pixie or Urban Decay Cream Shadow in Suburbia (Wet n Wild, wnwbeauty.com; urbandecay.com).
Black eyeliner can look harsh with bronzed skin, so go with a brown pencil instead, such as Lancôme Le Crayon Khôl in Black Coffee (lancome-usa.com).
A sheer nude or soft pink lip color works on all skin tones. We like Dior Addict Ultra Gloss in Trenchcoat Beige and Max Factor Vivid Impact Pure Pigment Lipcolor in Pink Pearl (dior.com; maxfactor.com).
Choose a highlighter that's close to your natural skin tone. A champagne shade, such as The Body Shop Brush On Radiance Powder (on reverse), works well on pale skin. For medium skin, go with a golden hue, such as Edward Bess All Over Seduction in Afterglow; on dark skin, use a coppery color, such as Black Radiance Velvet & Glow in Urban Chic (thebodyshop.com; edwardbess.com; blackradiancebeauty.com).
Tricks of the Trade

To ensure that you don't go overboard with bronzer, apply it while standing in natural light. An effective (though slightly obsessive) way to check your work is to take a digital picture of your face. The photo will show where you've applied too much color.
If the shade of bronze looks too dark or heavy on your skin, dip a clean powder brush in loose translucent powder, tap most of it off, and lightly swirl the brush over the bronzer to soften it.
Do not use peach blush with bronzer -- it can make the golden tones in the bronzer look orange.
Adding a little highlighter looks pretty for evening. Blend a powder or cream highlighter along your cheekbones, then dab just the tiniest bit on your brow bones and the tip of your nose.
If you want deeper color, don't sweep bronzer all over your face -- the result looks unnaturally flat. Instead, use a tinted moisturizer or gel first. Smooth it on your face and neck, and blend away any obvious lines near your ears and on your jawline and hairline with a damp makeup sponge. Apply your powder bronzer as usual.

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