Makeup

Makeup Dos and Don'ts for Rosacea

Q: Are there any cosmetics I shouldn't use if I have rosacea? What can I use to even out the appearance of my skin?
— Kate, Massachusetts

A: Patients with rosacea can be sensitive to ingredients such as retinol, glycolic acid, and Vitamin C that are found in some foundations and powders. These ingredients can cause irritation and redness, especially if they are used every day. You should definitely avoid using eye makeup that contains these components, since the skin around the eye area is thinner and more easily irritated; it's also susceptible to developing ocular rosacea (rosacea of the eyes and eyelids).
Many of my rosacea patients really like the look and feel of mineral makeup, which is made up of finely ground minerals that provide coverage and tint. Although you can find mineral makeup in liquid, powder, and cream versions, the loose powder is least likely to aggravate rosacea, since it contains fewer binders, thickeners, and preservatives, all of which can absorb into the skin and cause irritation. When shopping for foundation or face powder, look for warmer, yellow tones, which help reduce redness and camouflage broken blood vessels. Stay away from green-tinted makeup and concealers, which don't really neutralize the redness, but simply end up making you look green and pasty. An added bonus is that mineral makeup contains titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which are naturally occurring sunscreen ingredients, so you get some sun protection along with the coverage. One of my favorite loose mineral powders is L'Oreal Bare Naturale Powder Foundation SPF 19.
Although loose powder provides good coverage, it may be too drying or too heavy for some skin types. If you prefer more sheer coverage or more hydration, try a tinted moisturizer like Cover Girl CG Smoothers Tinted Moisturizer SPF 15, which contains glycerin to help hydrate without oiliness. Or, try mixing a drop of your favorite full-coverage foundation with a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen to even out your skin tone and protect you from the sun at the same time.